New Sewing Instructions for N.32 - Asymmetric Shirt

October 4, 2020

Many of you will have already noticed that I no longer use symbols in my sewing instructions - this applies to the new sewing patterns, but I'll gradually update the old ones, and some will be published here on this blog.
So, here're the new sewing instructions for N.32 - Dropped shoulder cotton Shirt with wide neckline, Asymmetric Collar, and oblique button Placket:

Step 1

Join the shoulder seams. Make a French seam.
Instead of the French seam, you can make a regular straight stitch at 1,5 cm from the edge, then finish the raw edge with a zig-zag stitch or a serger/overlocker.

Step 2

Join the collar P4 to the neckline of the shirt.
As shown alongside, fold the collar in half and press, then fold and press the seam allowances at 1 cm from the raw edge, on both sides of the collar, but only along the joint with the shirt neckline. Pin the collar to the neckline matching the notches, and stitch at 1 cm from the edge.

Trim the seams that might create bulk around the neckline - at shoulder joints. Clip the seam allowance all around the neckline.

Pin the other side of the collar to the shirt neckline. Double top-stitch the collar, first stitch at 2/3 mm, and second at 7 mm from the edge, making sure to catch under the first stitch the collar on the other side of the garment.

Step 3

Sew the buttonhole plackets to the shirt.
Firstly, join the two buttonhole plackets P6 and P7 together, follow the alongside photos. Lay the two pieces with the right sides facing, then make a straight stitch in the middle, as shown in the photos, leaving unstitched gaps which, once pressed this piece on its right side, are going to be the buttonholes, so make sure that the gaps are appropriate to your button size. Stop the stitch between the gaps.
Note: The two buttonhole plackets P6 and P7 can be replaced with the ‘’Simple Buttonhole placket P1*’’. You’ll have to make the buttonholes with the sewing machine.

Press the obtained piece opened, as shown in the photos alongside.

Fold and press the seam allowances around the piece perimeter, except the oblique side that ends up to the shirt side, 1 cm from the raw edge.

Top-stitch in the middle (along the buttonholes line) and around the piece perimeter, so to enclose the seam allowances. Stitch at 2/3 mm from the edge, as shown in the photos alongside. Leave unstitched the longer side of the piece that goes to the front P1.

Join the buttonhole placket to the front P1, top-stitch on the placket at 2/3 mm from the joint edge.

Step 4

Join the button placket P8 to the front P2.
Fold and press the piece in half. Fold and press at 1 cm from the raw edge the seam allowances around the piece perimeter, except the oblique side that goes to the side of the shirt.

Pin and top-stitch the button placket to the front P2.

Step 5

Sew the sleeve plackets.

Apply the fusible interfacing to the placket, fold and press at 7 mm from the raw edge the seam allowances, as shown in the photos alongside.

Pin the placket to the sleeve slit line (on the wrong side of the sleeve) and make a stitch around the slit, 5 mm on the sides, and 1 cm on the top. Then cut the slit and press the placket as shown below.

Flip the placket on the right side of the sleeve, then fold and press the placket, as shown in the photos.

Top-stitch at the very edge of the placket to finish this detail.

Step 6

Join the sleeves to the bodice of the shirt. Make a French seam. Instead of the French seam, you can make a regular straight stitch at 1,5 cm from the edge, then finish the raw edge with a zig-zag stitch or a serger/overlocker.

Step 7

Join the side seams of the shirt. Make a French seam. Instead of the French seam, you can make a regular straight stitch at 1,5 cm from the edge, then finish the raw edge with a zig-zag stitch or a serger/overlocker.

Step 8

Add the cuffs to the sleeves.

Take a fabric scrap and make a couple of button loops for the cuffs.

Apply fusible interfacing only on 2 of 4 cuff pieces.

Place and pin the button loops on the interfaced side of the cuffs, see in the photos alongside. Then lay the other half of the cuff on the top, right sides facing, pin and stitch the layers together along the perimeter at 1 cm from the raw edge, leave unstitches the upper side.

Trim the corners at 2 mm from the stitching line and some seam allowance to reduce thickness.

Fold and press the seam allowance at 1 cm from the raw edge of the not interfaced side of the cuffs.

Close and pin the pleat on the sleeves then join the cuffs. The interfaced side of the cuff must be on the outer side of the garment, so pin this side to the sleeve first, right sides facing.